9
Q. How do I change the engine oil?
A. BMW's use of a filter canister allows for a simpler oil change without the mess. A detailed explanation of a standard DIY M3 oil change can be
found at
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/oilchange.htm or at http://www.dol.net/~stimpee/e36_ofc1.htm.
Q. How do I change the manual transmission and differential fluids?
A. Changing the transmission and differential fluids is rather straightforward and detailed information can be found at Ron Stygar’s web page for
manual transmission fluid
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_change_manual_transmission_fluid.html and differential fluid changing
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_final_drive_fluid_change.html.
Q. What fluid is recommended for manual transmissions?
A. There is little wrong with BMW's recent use of lifetime factory fill transmission oil (BMW MTF LT-1). However, some M3 transmissions may exhibit
notchiness and minor grinding when engaging gears especially in colder weather. A simple yet effective solution is to change your existing fluid to
Redline D4 ATF Lubricant.
Q. How can I reset my service interval lights?
A. A special reset tool is needed, however rather than buying one, instructions on how to make your own are available at Ron Stygar's web page
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/electrical/e36_reset_service_lights.html.
Q. What is bad about using a car wash (automatic and touchless)?
A. Automatic car washes should be avoided for a couple of reasons: the M3's DME is particularly susceptible to flooding (there have been numerous
problems with this) and the more obvious is potential damage to the vehicle's finish. The large rotary brushes and sponge-like devices may look
clean, but after washing countless other vehicles, dirt, sand, and chemicals are trapped and ready to be redeposited on your finish. Your vehicle's
finish will suffer micro scratching and any useful layer of wax will most likely be removed. Another problem is the water filtration system used by
car washes. Most of the water is recycled to keep operational costs down and the process retains dirt and chemicals in the closed loop system.
This is the primary reason why touchless car washes, while somewhat better that the automatic washes, should be avoided as well.
Q. What are the proper methods of: vehicle detailing, repairing paint chips and leather seats, and even cleaning the engine?
A. While I could spend a significant amount of time discussing this topic, Car Care Specialties Online has compiled an excellent selection of articles on
the topic
http://www.carcareonline.com/howto_articles.html
.
Q. How do I clean and protect my leather seats?
A. Most leather products available leave a wet look and make the leather extremely slippery. A quality leather treatment is somewhat difficult to find,
but Lexol and Leatherique are two companies offering cleaners and conditioners created to properly detail leather, leaving it soft, supple, and not
slippery.
Q. What can I do to clean my side moldings?
A. Because the black plastic moldings have a rough texture, removing wax build up can become very frustrating. Outlined below are several effective
procedures, but before you attempt any of them, I recommend masking off the areas above and below the trim or remove it entirely so you don't
damage your paint.
•
For light residue, a simple mild abrasive such as a pink eraser works well at getting into the texture to remove the wax.
•
Another option is to use a chemical cleaner. Note that products containing silicone, such as Armor All or Black Magic, do not work
and merely cover up the wax until the next car wash. Many people have had success with off-the-shelf automotive products such
as Zymöl Leather Cleaner, Meguiar's #39 Heavy Duty Vinyl Cleaner, and Black Again (no longer available).
•
For extremely stubborn wax, Xylene (the professional detailer's choice) may be your last hope. Using an excessive amount will
actually remove small amounts of plastic, however it will surely remove any wax residue. Be extremely careful not to get any on
your paint.
•
If you have clean trim (or after you have removed the wax) and it is faded, you may want to try a chemical dye called Forever
Black. The dye will last for about a year and a half depending on the amount of sunlight and will restore your trim's original deep
black appearance.
•
Finally, be sure to treat the plastic with a protectant (non silicone preferred) upon completion of the above steps.
Q. What brand of ramps will fit under the M3?
A. One of the better lightweight, plastic ramp sets made by Rhino can be purchased for about $30 at most major retail stores, e.g., Wal*Mart. Look
for the model with the wording “Low Profile.” M3s with modified suspensions may scrape the front air dam on the ramps depending on the
amount of drop.
Q. Where can I purchase original BMW parts at the best prices?
A. For savings close to 40% off retail prices and BMW CCA member discounts, visit the following dealers:
Pacific BMW http://www.pacificbmw.com/parts/partindex.htm
Circle BMW http://www.circlebmw.com/parts/parts.html
Nick Alexander Imports (800) 800-6425 (ask for Joe Chavez or Danny Campos)
