lower control arm bushings get pretty bad after 10-20 years. These are cheap to buy and
labor is the real cost. If you can replace them yourself, do it. Also, using a spray-on rubber
lube on suspension points on a regular basis is cheap insurance – once you know they are in
good shape. An improvement you can make is to use the newer poly bushings.
The steering linkage is located forward of the front cross member. The P Chassis linkage is
illustrated below. Steering effort is transmitted to left- and right-hand adjustable tie rods
through a relay rod. The relay rod is connected to an idler arm on the right and to the
pitman arm on the left. The fit of the shafts in the linkage support assemblies should be tight
with end play not exceeding .003. If it exceeds .003 inches in either assembly, adjust to
within 0 to .003 inches. Set large lock nut torque cap to 25 ft. lbs. and then loosen 1/16 turn
and tighten lock nut. If there is side play, replace the bushings. Lube the linkage under
'normal' conditions every 7,500 miles or every 3,000 miles if used in 'dusty' conditions. The
“support assembly” in the illustration below is also known as a “bellcrank”. These two
bellcranks are obvious points for improvement. More modern versions are much more
heavy duty, the SuperSteer version is one to consider. Expensive, but one of the best
improvements to make for handling.
Many motorhomes sit in storage for a long time between use. That steering damper (it's
really a shock absorber) can accumulate rust on its horizontal exposed rod. If it does get
heavily rusted and you just jump in after a long storage period and drive off, that rusty rod
may rip up the seal as soon as it moves inward when you turn the steering wheel. Good idea
to check it and possibly clean it off. Turn the steering wheel so as to extend the rod fully
while you check it. If it's badly rusted, it's probably a good idea to replace the damper. Same
thing applies to the shocks. Think about some preventive measures added to your pre-
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