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:: Chassis Tips
:: Front End Tips
Gearing:
Recommended gearing: 16:44. This is a good starting point for most tracks. Follow your engine manufacturer’s
recommendations for gearing options. Typically on larger, more open track layouts a 17T clutch bell is used.
Gear Mesh:
To correctly set your gear mesh, follow the steps below:
1. Loosen the engine mount screws so you can slide your engine from side to side freely.
2. Slide the engine until the clutch bell comes in contact with the spur gear. Tighten the engine mount screws.
Now “rock” the spur gear. There should be a little “free play” between the gears.
3. If you have a small amount of ‘free-play’, continue building your RC8.2. If not, go back to Step 1. Be sure to check for
“free-play” through a full rotation of the spur gear.
WARNING! Caution when setting / checking gear mesh after running your vehicle, the clutch bell WILL BE HOT!
Differential Fluid:
Team Associated includes a complete bottle of 5,000cst diff oil. You can also provide your own oil and try one of the
optional setups.
Standard differential fluid setup: Front = 5,000cst; Center = 5,000cst; Rear = 5,000cst.
Optional diff setup 1 (high grip track): Front = 5,000cst; Center = 10,000cst; Rear = 5,000cst.
Center Differential:
Use the standard setup for most cases. Some racers will try thicker oil (7,000-10,000cst) when greater acceleration
is needed. This is typically done on very smooth tracks since thicker fluid can reduce handling in bumpy conditions.
Front Differential:
Use the standard setup for most cases. Try 7,000cst to 10,000cst to get less low speed steering and better
acceleration out of turns.
Kickup Bushing:
Generally more kick-up will provide better handling in the bumps and have better straight line acceleration.
Less kick-up will provide more all around steering and have a more aggressive feel.
Caster:
The standard caster block insert setup is for 16 degrees. The standard inboard kick-up is 9 degrees (2-dot up insert
in A-plate). You can reduce the caster using 14 degree inserts (also move both upper cone washers in front of the ball
joint) for smoother steering. Changing to 18 degree inserts (also move both upper cone washers behind the ball joint)
will typically provide more steering on power but reduce handling in bumpy conditions.
Front Upper Pivot Insert:
The standard setup is to use 2-dot up in the tower and 1-dot in the top plate. It is recommended to maintain a 1 dot
gap (1mm per dot) front to rear when using 2-dot up in the A-Plate. Reducing the A-Plate insert to 1-dot allows the use
of same dot number insert in both tower and top plate. Going up to 3-dot up in the tower will give more turn in, but less
steering on power/exit. Going down (1-dot, 2-dot down) will reduce turn in, but give more steering on exit.
Front Camber Link-Outer:
The standard short location will work the best for most tracks. Going to the long front link will give you more steering,
but can make the car less predictable in bumps and exiting turns.
Front Camber Angle:
A good starting camber setting is –2 degrees. Positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, is typically not
recommended.
Front Toe-In:
Zero degree toe-in (tires pointing straight forward) is a good starting setting. You can increase turn in by adding 1-2
degrees of toe-out (front of tires point slightly out). Front toe - in is not a typical tuning adjustment used by the Team.
Front Ride Height:
The front ride height setting you should use most often is with 29mm of gap between the chassis bottom and the
ground. Check the ride height with the FT Ride Height Gauge (#1449) by lifting up the entire vehicle about 8-12 inches
off the bench and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into place, then raise or lower the adjustment collars as
necessary and recheck.
Front Arm Shock Location:
Inside on the arm will give a more responsive front end. Outside on the arm will be less responsive steering, but will be
more predictable through bumps.
